Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
